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Disturbing Report Should Serve as Wake-up Call on Cosmetic Preservative Safety

By David Steinman, from Healthy Living

Two recent reports raise disturbing questions about the safety of commonly used cosmetic preservatives. They also make very clear why smart consumers should be seeking cosmetics and personal care products with safe, natural preservative systems.

The first report-a recent study from the journal Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology-raises disturbing questions about the safety of a group of commonly used cosmetic preservatives known as parabens. Consumers who check labels will see parabens listed on a wide range of cosmetics and personal care products. Leave-on products such as facial make-up and skin lotions are of greatest concern because of the long exposure time and opportunity for migration via the skin into the bloodstream. In this case, our concern is the recently discovered inadvertent estrogenicity of the parabens. The estrogenic effects of certain synthetic chemicals, and their subsequent effects on the endocrine system of humans and wildlife, is of growing concern-especially in relation to women's risk of breast cancer and reproductive abnormalities in young boys exposed to such chemicals either prior to puberty or during pregnancy. Such estrogenic chemicals may increase male risk for undescended testicles, testicular cancer, sperm abnormalities and prostate disorders.

Meanwhile, Thomas Connor, Ph.D., associate professor of environmental sciences at the University of Texas-Houston School of Public Health, claims in a preliminary report in Environmental and Molecular Mutagenesis that the preservatives methylisothiazolinone and methylchloroisothiazolinone have mutagenic and cancer-causing properties and should be carefully evaluated for safety.

The Paraben Paradox

For many years, parabens were considered among those preservatives with low systemic toxicity, primarily causing allergic reactions. However, as we have become aware that some synthetic chemicals mimic the female hormone estrogen, our understanding of the toxic effects of both synthetic and natural substances has changed. Now, researchers from the Department of Biology & Biochemistry, Brunel University, Uxbridge, Middlesex, have found that alkyl hydroxy benzoate preservatives (namely methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, and butylparaben) are weakly estrogenic. In an estrogen receptor-binding assay, butylparaben was able to compete with the female hormone estradiol for binding to estrogen receptors with an affinity approximately 5 orders of magnitude lower than that of diethylstilbestrol (a highly carcinogenic synthetic estrogen), and between 1 and 2 orders of magnitude less than nonylphenol (an estrogenic synthetic industrial chemical).

Although it is reassuring to note that when administered orally, the parabens were inactive, subcutaneous administration of butylparaben produced a positive estrogenic response on uterine tissues. Although approximately 100,000 times less potent than 17 beta-estradiol, greater exposure to the parabens may compensate for their lower potency. The researchers conclude that, "Given their use in a wide range of commercially available topical preparations, it is suggested that the safety in use of these chemicals should be reassessed . . ." Kathon GC:

Emerging Toxic Menace?

Earlier research has shown preservatives known commercially as Kathon GC and by their scientific names as methylisothiazolinone and methylchloroisothiazolinone alone could damage cell processes in ways that might lead to cancer. However, more recent research by Dr. Connor is the first to show properties of whole products containing these preservatives may also damage cell processes. Shampoos and conditioners often contain these preservatives. They are listed on labels. Using bacterial tests, Dr. Connor found three products using the preservatives had cancer-causing potential.

"If an ingredient causes skin-sensitization and is mutagenic, that means that it may have the potential to cause skin cancer," cautions Dr. Connor. An industry-funded Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel concluded that Kathon GC may be safely used in rinse-off products at a concentration not to exceed 15 parts per million (ppm) and in "leave-on" products at a concentration not to exceed 7.5 ppm.

"Although it may be assumed that the ingredient is safe at these levels as far as mutagenicity is concerned, the fact remains that it is also a sensitizing agent and may affect some individuals even at these levels," says Dr. Connor. What's more, he adds, "It is probable that a person could use a shampoo, conditioner, styling gel and skin lotion one or more times in a single day, making the total daily dose substantial. Because many of these products are used by children and young adults, the potential for long-term exposure can be considerable." In addition, the ingredient is absorbed through the skin.

Dr. Connor has continued his research and is now analyzing additional data from more complex systems. Thus far, the results show that the higher the dose, the greater the likelihood of mutagenicity-although the results have not thus far been statistically significant and require further confirmation.

Preservatives Necessary

Cosmetics and personal care products require preservatives or they will become contaminated with bacteria, and it would be irresponsible for companies not to use preservatives. The choice of preservatives, however, is especially important because this family of ingredients is, like fragrances, one of the leading causes of contact dermatitis-and, we now suspect, could potentially cause long-term health problems. Furthermore, cosmetics are not required to be tested for safety prior to being put into commerce.

Unpublicized Preservative Hazards

There are other hazards associated with preservatives that consumers are rarely told about. Some of the most allergenic and irritating preservatives release small amounts of formaldehyde, which is not only an irritant and skin sensitizer but cancer-causing and damaging to the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies do not use such ingredients because they can make the eyes sting and irritate the skin. But many companies do, and health-conscious consumers should be able to identify these ingredients so they can avoid products containing them.

The following ingredients contain formaldehyde, may release formaldehyde, or may break down into formaldehyde:

2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol
Diazolidinyl urea
DMDM hydantoin
Imidazolidinyl urea
Quaternium 15

Seekers of the most gentle yet effective cosmetics should limit their exposure to these chemicals.

Safe and Effective Preservatives

The following ingredients-which research shows are both extremely gentle and effective-can also be used as preservatives and seem to cause the least irritation and fewest allergic reactions:

Grapefruit seed extract
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium sorbate
Sorbic acid
Tocopherol (vitamin E)
Vitamin A (retinyl)
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)

These are the preservatives that you should prefer whenever possible. In particular grapefruit seed extract appears to be an extremely potent and well-tolerated preservative. Its use in cosmetics was introduced into the United States by Aubrey Organics.

Among companies that have long refrained from deliberate addition of the parabens, Kathon GC, and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives are Aubrey Organics, Dr. Hauschka, and Weleda. Each of these companies, whose products are available at health food stores and natural product supermarkets, offers consumers facial make-up, skin lotions, shampoos, conditioners and other personal care products with extremely safe, yet effective preservative systems.

The studies on the parabens and Kathon GC are preliminary. That means there is probably a great deal that is as yet unknown. For example, the researchers who discovered the estrogenicity of the parabens have further confirmed these effects in a subsequent study. They are now considering doing skin-painting studies. If these studies also show estrogenic effects, it would mean that the preservatives are potentially estrogenic precisely in the manner as used by consumers. The most cautious consumers may prefer to avoid these preservatives altogether. Some companies such as Aubrey Organics have not only implemented written policy guidelines to raw material suppliers that strictly prohibit the addition of such preservatives to their beginning ingredients, they have also begun their own laboratory screening programs to further insure that their raw materials are free from these preservatives. For this reason, health-conscious consumers can look to Aubrey Organics, Dr. Hauschka, and Weleda as leaders in the area of effective yet nontoxic preservative systems.

References:
Routledge, E.J., et al "Some alkyl hydroxy benzoate preservatives (parabens) are estrogenic." Toxicol Appl Pharmacol, 1998; 153(1):12-9.
Conner, T. Environmental and Molecular Mutagenesis, 1996; 28: 127-132.

Source:
Article by: David Steinman
Disturbing Report Should Serve as Wake-up Call on Cosmetic Preservative Safety for Healthy Living
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